Yes – this is the Island made world famous in the movie “Mamma Mia”.

This small church gained a huge reputation after the Hollywood movie Mamma Mia was released. Many scenes from the wedding were actually filmed here although a lot of clever editing makes the place look so much bigger. The impressive rock is linked to the rest of the island by a narrow path with 110 steps carved into the stone. The church itself is tiny – you could have maybe 6 – 10 guests! Thought to once have been a defensive position (Kastri/Castle) because of it’s amazing position with a clear view out over the ocean for many miles.

We anchored in the harbour of Loutraki on the opposite side of the island from the Mamma Mia church and the second of the two main harbours in Skopelos. We had a very short day with this island anchorage being only a couple of hours motor-sailing from Skiathos. A quiet little place with all the necessities – a good bakery, a few tavernas and a fresh water tap. The island bus went from here to the main town of Skopelos 4 times per day. ‘Bus’ does not describe this vehicle. In fact on every Greek Island the buses are air conditioned comfortable coaches (which may have been subsidised by the EU?). The hour long ride wound along the beautiful coast and over precarious mountain roads (all were bitumen) and was only EUR 4.80 pp – the motion sickness was free. Yet again I suffered, feeling quite queasy by the time we arrived. The main harbour of Skopelos is quite large with a huge town basin filled with fishermen’s boat and visiting yachts. The town meanders up the hillside with many small cobbled streets only wide enough for motorbikes and pedestrians. Every available niche, doorway and balcony is cluttered with planters and pots filled with vibrant cascading flowers of all types in all hues. Atop the town, as always, was the ubiquitous white painted church on the highest point – closest to god. While searching for the old Olive Press, as shown on the tourist map, we discovered another really old stone church, almost built out by the encroaching buildings – and the Olive Press had been turned in to a classy restaurant.

I was not keen on riding the bus back and the ferry was not leaving for a few hours so instead I bought some Sturgeron motion sickness tablets and after one of these and some lunch, I was fine. Rather than ride the whole way back to Loutraki we got off the bus at Glossa, which is the town above our anchorage, and bought 🍦🍧 (ice cream) to be consumed on the 3km walk back down hill to the boat. The walk took us down the original cobbled path connecting the town to the port (most people live up in the town) winding down through resident’s backyards and some shows of the most flamboyant red and purple bougainvillea and orange pyrostegia climbers. The views out over the Aegean were breathtaking but in 31 degrees it was great to finally arrive back in the Port for a swim and shower.

The following afternoon we said goodbye to our new friends, Chris and Elaine, on Ginny. They were spending a few more days exploring different anchorages and planned on hiring a car. We wanted to go to a recommended anchorage called Styflos on the SE end of the island so we parted company in the afternoon. We arrived at another incredibly beautiful horseshoe shaped bay to anchor in 4 metres of crystal clear water and spent a very quiet and peaceful night. The beach was covered in permanent umbrellas and sun loungers (EUR 6 for the day) but no noisy speed boats towing screaming patrons around the anchorage at high speed as we experienced fairly often last year. We spent the following day lazing about, swimming and reading and watched while the bay filled up with day trippers on yachts. Mid morning a 40 ft yacht with 5 burly german men arrived for their day of beer (I presume), and swimming . Imagine my shock/horror when I came up top to be confronted with a eyeful of male genitalia on the neighbouring boat. We decided to call a ‘wee willy winkie’ alert before coming on deck again that afternoon. Around 4 pm they took their winkies, up-anchored and headed back to base, managing to lift our nicely set anchor in the process. Instead of re-anchoring we decided to head off to our next island on the itinerary, Alonissos, only a couple of hours away and completely do-able before sunset just before 9 pm. Love these long daylight hours.